Little India at Lovers Leap

Since jilted Hannah Baddeley leapt from the top two centuries ago, giving the place its name, the Stoney Middleton watering hole has undergone a number of incarnations. And, like Hannah's fate, the results have been mixed.

The grief-stricken lover was saved from a grisly death by her billowing petticoats and the brambles which broke her fall – only to die, a heartbroken spinster, just two years later, aged 26.

Since those days the inn has been variously a hostelry, a biker's café and an up-market wine bar and bistro. In 2006 it enjoyed a brief Mediterranean flirtation at the hands of Sheffield Italian Toni Dente.

But now the Peak landmark seems at last to have found its niche – in the unlikely guise of an Indian restaurant.

The man behind the latest transformation is former taxi driver Ahad Miah, who used to pass Stoney Middleton en route from Nottingham to Manchester Airport. But he had never looked twice at the Lover's Leap until fate again took a hand – and he took the plunge.

Ahad and his brothers own a restaurant near Nottingham and one evening the Lover's Leap chefs called in for a meal and happened to mention that the inn was on the market. Later that night Ahad drove over to see the place, then he returned to chat to the locals and ask if there was any potential for an Indian restaurant.

The result was a resounding 'yes' and Little India at the Lover's Leap is now a thriving part of the community.

"We have a lot of regulars and it's just starting to build up a reputation," says Ahad.

"We're managing to keep busy right through the week, especially as we offer free delivery in the area."

The building didn't need much work when he moved in: layers of paint and panelling had already been peeled away to uncover centuries-old stonework and beams. All that was needed was a coat of paint and a bit of atmosphere.

That's been supplied by Indian-themed paintings and wall-hangings, while padded leather chairs, monochrome table cloths and a red rose on each table add a touch of class.

There's a central fireplace, complete with cast iron stove – the one thing missing during our visit is a fire in the grate.

Ahad and brother Koyes have plenty of experience in the restaurant trade – they were initiated at the age of 15 – but they make no claims in the cooking department; that's down to brother-in-law Fysal Choudhury.

The menu is based on their tried-and-tested formula, with a few 'Stoney specials'. There's the usual selection of tikka and kebab starters, a variety of curries, baltis, tandooris and chef's recommendations, including several fish dishes, plus an interesting range of vegetarian options. Set meals, for two, start at £25.50.

The bar lounge is a comfortable place for a pre-dinner drink. There's a good range of spirits and liqueurs, as well as draft and bottled beers and wines. We settle for the house red, a French vdp, unremarkable except for its price, £9.95.

We start by demolishing a Stoney Special Tray between us. There are onion bhajis, tandoori chicken in sweet, spicy tomato sauce, wonderfully succulent cubes of lamb tikka, plus onion, olives and wedges of lemon.

Main courses are always difficult to choose when there are nearly 100 to pick from. I go for the chef's recommendations and order gulbhar chicken – pieces of meat fried with mushrooms, ginger, garlic, onion and spices and finished with sticky mango chutney. A fine combination.

My companion picks the Stoney Special mix bhuna – chunks of tandoori chicken, lamb tikka, kofta and king prawn cooked with onions, peppers and spices and served with special fried rice, which is a meal in itself.

It's good but one of the highlights is the naan bread: light, puffy and smothered with coriander and garlic in his case; filled with moist, sweet coconut and sultanas in mine.

Hot towels accompany a dish of palate-cleansing orange slices. The dessert menu arrives but it's the usual selection of bought-in ice creams. Why don't Indian restaurants bother making their own?

We make do with the oranges and order coffee, with chocolates and cream, to finish – along with complimentary liqueurs which are all part of the excellent service.

Dinner for two, excluding drinks, is £38.40.

Verdict: A culinary leap of faith that seems to have paid off. Authentic Indian food in a setting that oozes Peak District charm.